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All garage door servicesOpener humming, clicking or not moving the door? We find the fault and fix most openers the same visit.

Every opener fault has a short list of likely causes. The inspection tells us which one.
A stripped drive gear, a trolley that’s come loose from the carriage, or a broken spring making the door too heavy to lift. If the door feels heavy or looks crooked, stop pressing the button.
Batteries, programming, lock mode, the antenna or the receiver.
Sensors, or force and limit settings that need adjusting.
Worn gears, a loose chain or a stretched belt.
Power, a tripped GFCI, or a logic board hit by a storm surge.
A disconnected or broken trolley, chain or belt.
The motor unit drives a trolley along the rail, and an arm connects the trolley to the top of the door. The red emergency release lets you separate the door from the opener.
The opener guides the door; the springs do the lifting. That’s why a humming motor with a door that won’t move is so often a spring problem, not an opener problem.
Since 1993, federal safety rules have required residential openers to reverse when something is in the door’s path, which is what the photo-eye sensors do. We test force and auto-reverse after every repair.
Some opener problems take a minute to fix. Try these first, and stop at the first sign of a spring or cable problem.
Make sure the opener is plugged in and the outlet or GFCI hasn’t tripped, especially after a storm.
Replace the remote battery and make sure the wall control isn’t in lock or vacation mode.
Wipe both photo-eye lenses and check that their lights are steady, not blinking.
If the emergency release was pulled, the trolley needs to re-engage before the opener can move the door.
That points to a broken spring or cable. Don’t run the opener. Call us.

Most opener faults are worth repairing. Replacement starts to make sense when:
Opener problems often connect to other parts of the system.
DoorX dispatches across Orlando and nearby cities. Call to confirm your address.
Call (689) 400-1172Usually a stripped drive gear, a disengaged trolley, or a broken spring making the door too heavy to lift. Don’t keep pressing the button. If the door looks crooked or feels heavy, it’s likely a spring or cable problem.
Most often the photo-eye sensors are blocked, dirty or out of alignment, or the close force and limit settings need adjusting. It’s the opener’s safety system doing its job.
Replace the remote battery, check that the wall control isn’t in lock or vacation mode, and try reprogramming the remote. If it still fails, the receiver or logic board may need attention.
Repair makes sense for most faults on a working unit. Replacement makes sense if the opener has no photo-eye safety sensors, keeps failing, or parts are no longer available, or if you want a quieter belt drive or smart features.
Yes. Power surges from summer lightning storms can damage an opener’s logic board. If the opener died after a storm, check the outlet and any GFCI first, then call us.
Tell us what the opener is doing. We’ll diagnose it on-site and fix most faults the same visit.
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Door stuck, noisy or won’t close?
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